uPVC Roofline Fascia and Soffit Installation
September 5, 2009
When putting up new fascias, soffits and bargeboards or replacing them, one option is to fit UPVC. Available in popular white, black and two shades of brown. UPVC fascia and soffit material will save maintenance and looks great – there will be no need for repainting every other year, just wiping down with a damp cloth and upvc cleaner should bring it back.
When putting up new fascias, soffits and bargeboards or replacing them, one option is to fit UPVC. Available in popular white, black and two shades of brown. UPVC fascia and soffit material will save maintenance and looks great – there will be no need for repainting every other year, just wiping down with a damp cloth and upvc cleaner should bring it back.
Although not covered by this article, the roof guttering will need to be removed before the fascia can be replaced.
SAFETY FIRST!
Remember that replacing fascia, soffit or bargeboard necessitates working at height and due care is necessary. It is not a job for a person on a ladder. Appropriate scaffolding is highly recommended
When replacing a wooden fascia, soffit or bargeboard, it is recommended that the old fascia, soffit or bargeboards are all removed. Some ‘professionals’ will clad over existing wood but this risks trapping moisture which could cause serious rot in the structure.
Different types of board
Note that different styles of board are available:
Square leg,Ogee and Bullnosed.
Cover Board (capping board) is, as the name suggests, for covering/capping existing fascia, whereas Full Replacement Fascia Board (maxi board) is intended for use without a backing surface. While Cover Board tends to be thinner as it is not acting alone as part of the structure, the main difference is that Fascia Board can be fitted directly onto the rafters and meets all building regulations.
If you need to replace wooden fascia, this probably indicates that the building is 20 years or more old and, where fitted, the roofing felt under the tiles should be checked at the eaves. Felt often deteriorates at this point and, if necessary, it should be replaced up to the first batten (or, as a minimum, 12 inches (300 mm)). When fitting new felt, ensure that it projects about 3 inches (75 mm) over the fascia and is fitted under the existing felt so that any water runoff runs onto the new felt rather than under it.
* Allow 5 mm clearance at each end of the material to allow for expansion.
* Fit a cover strip at each joint and corner.
Before starting to fix a length of fascia, clear a whole side of the building of guttering etc. and fix a horizontal builders string line along the side of the building so that all sections of board can be levelled to the same line.
The new fascia should be pushed up under the ends of the tiles and levelled before fixing, it’s easier to get the fascia straight if the lowest row of tiles can be pushed up out of the way while the fascia is positioned and fixed.
Fix the fascia using plastic headed Polytop stainless steel ring nails (specifically supplied for the job), two vertically at 600 mm horizontal centres. Position the nails vertically so that they spread the load, one near the top of the surface behind, one near the bottom. Keep the vertical position of the nails constant between horizontal positions otherwise the line of nails will look unsightly.
As mentioned above, to do the job properly, the original timber fascia, soffit and bargeboard should be removed before fitting replacements.
Any rot in the ends of the rafter should be repaired using good quality timber treated with preservative.
Make sure that any old nails in the ends of the rafters are removed.
Fix the fascia to the ends of the rafters using plastic headed Polytop stainless steel ring nails, with the first set of tiles pushed up, locating the ends of the rafters is easier.
Choosing the right roofing contractor
September 5, 2009
Before agreeing to select a contractor to carry out improvements or repairs to your property you should always obtain references from their previous customers.At rooflinedirect.co.uk we have an extensive list of satisfied homeowners and will be happy to provide any potential customer with references in their immediate location or surrounding area.
Could you fix your own roof?
September 5, 2009
Can I fix my own roof? The answer, of course, is yes. You simply need to have the desire and the time to know how to fix the particular type of roof that you have. However there are three general questions to contend with before you can even consider a DIY roof repair.
1) What is the extent of the damage? Assuming that the root cause of the problem is plainly obvious, you can more or less have an idea of the amount of effort that you’ll have to put in to carry out the repair. You might, though, likely underestimate the extent of the problem; and that’s when issue # 2 comes into the picture.
2) How much time can you spare to learn the skills and to do the repair properly? Obviously, the job will be much easier and more enjoyable if you already have some knowledge of carpentry, for example. If you’re a total neophyte, you’re more likely to aggravate the problem instead of fixing it. The only way to improve your chances of doing a good job at roof repair is to do the research and then to dive right in and get your hands dirty.
3) Finally, you’ll need to find out what equipment you will need-which ones you already have and which ones you’ll have to purchase. This is when you’ll have to take money into account. Unless you intend to make roof repair a yearly hobby and you already own at least the basic carpentry equipment to do the job, it might prove less expensive and less aggravating to hire a QUALIFIED roofer to do the job for you.
Answer these three questions first before you set out on a roof-repair project.
